Painting 25mm WWII NKVD Step by Step
This is a step-by-step guide for painting 25mm WWII NKVD miniature figures. This guide was created by DJD Miniatures as a workbench article for The Miniatures Page (www.theminiaturespage.com)
TMP Workbench Article - Painting Battle Honors WWII NKVD Command
In talking with Bill we agreed that as they were 2 sets of command we would split them up and paint one to represent border guards and the other standard NKVD. As the base colors were the same replicas relojes we kept them together through the painting process.
First was some flashing and filing. Then the figures were washed in soap and water to remove any residue left from the mold.
They were nicely based on the metal washers when they arrived (Thanks Bill!) so no work was needed to glue them onto holders for painting. So the next step was the primer coat.
I’m a big believer in black primer as the best way to keep those really deep shadows so that is what we used here. I’ve never been entirely happy with spray primer so we use a siwss replica watches paint-on black primer that gives a smooth even coat. If you want to make a good paint-on black primer just take a black acrylic (we use artist acrylics but hobby or miniature acrylics are fine as well) and add about 10 – 15% by volume of white PVA glue, then mix and add water to thin as needed. Paint on a thin coat of this mixture as your primer and keep any extra in a jar for your next batch of figures.
Next were the flesh parts of the figures, starting with a deep flesh tone.
We then highlight the flesh with a lighter flesh tone. In painting these guys we will hold the eyes and more facial details for later in the process.
Next step is to start the uniform with rolex replica watches a base coat on the shirt. Again we start with the darker shade and will then add lighter shades on replicas rolex top, leaving the darker shade exposed in the folds and crevasse.
We add some highlights just at the top of folds and such for a bit more contrast.
This process is repeated for the pants and then on to finer details like hats and shoulder boards.
From a process flow we try and paint from the skin out and also from larger areas to smaller areas.
We held the eyes and additional face details until after the large blocks around the face had been painted. The eyes, eyebrows, lips etc. take some time and they are easily ruined from an accident while painting the shirt or hat – so we save them for after the adjacent parts are painted.
We attached flags at this point, the flag material is simply an old toothpaste tube (not the plastic kind) cut open, flattened, washed and then cut to size for the flag and super-glued in place. These can be bent to shape and hold their form well. Just prime the flag once you have it in place and then paint away.
Now we have finished up the flags and inked the flesh parts to add some more depth.
Next step is sealing with the figures getting 2 coats of acrylic matt sealer.
We then do the flocking – for this crew dirt and mud covered ground seemed best so that is what they received. We used some epoxy to blend in the seam between the base and the figure’s base then while the epoxy is still sticky we implant the straw grass. Wait for that to dry overnight then superglue the straw to the dry epoxy. Coat the base with a thick coat of white PVA glue mixed with a few drops of brown paint. The audemars piguet replica brown paint adds color depth if any flocking gets knocked off the top. Coat the base with dirt and some small pebbles. Add a few clumps of regular flock and the figures are set.